It depends on the year and chassis, since the MacBook Pro 13″ line spans 2009 to 2023 and 18 distinct part numbers. Voltage runs from 10.8 to 11.26 V and capacity from about 55 to 95 Wh, all lithium-ion. A 2009 to 2012 Unibody uses an A1322 family pack, a Retina model uses A1493 or A1582, and a 2016 to 2017 Touch Bar uses A1713. Check your model number (like A1278 or A1706) on the underside before ordering so you get the matching pack.

Match the model number printed on the bottom of the laptop, such as A1278, A1502, or A1706, since that ties directly to a battery family. From there, confirm the release year, because a Mid-2012 Unibody and a Late 2013 Retina look related but use different packs (A1322 versus A1493). Voltage falls between 10.8 and 11.26 V and capacity between 55 and 95 Wh across the line. Once your model and year line up, you have your part number.

Replacement batteries for this line run from $46.99 to $92.99. Where your specific pack lands in that range depends on the chassis era and capacity, since older Unibody packs differ from the higher-density Retina and USB-C/Touch Bar packs that range up to about 95 Wh. Matching your exact model number, like A1278 or A1989, is the quickest way to land on the correct price and part.

No, they are not broadly interchangeable across the line. With 18 distinct part numbers covering roughly 77 models, batteries differ in shape, capacity, attachment method, and voltage (10.8 to 11.26 V). A Unibody A1322 pack will not fit a Retina A1493 or a Touch Bar A1713 model, even though all are 13-inch machines. Always match by model number (A1278, A1502, A1706) and year rather than assuming one pack covers several years.

The biggest differences are attachment method and capacity. Unibody batteries (A1322 family) are removable behind a user-accessible panel using a Phillips #00 and Torx T6 screwdriver. Retina batteries (A1493, A1582) are glued into the top case. USB-C/Touch Bar batteries (A1713 and later) use high-density adhesive, and late 2016 and newer models often route through a daughter board instead of the logic board. Capacity ranges from about 55 to 95 Wh depending on which sub-series you have.

Look on the underside of the laptop for the model number, which begins with an “A” followed by four digits, such as A1278, A1502, or A1706. That model number maps to a battery family (for example, A1706 takes an A1713 family pack). You can also check existing battery markings if your model allows access to it. Confirming both the model number and release year keeps you from mixing up similar looking packs.

Yes, with the right tools and patience the difficulty depends on your era. Unibody models (2009 to 2012, A1322 family) are the most straightforward, with a removable battery behind a back panel reached using a Phillips #00 and Torx T6 screwdriver. Retina models are glued into the top case and need careful adhesive removal. USB-C/Touch Bar models use high-density adhesive and sometimes connect through a daughter board, so they take the most care. Match your model number first.

Common signs include sharply reduced runtime, the laptop shutting down even when it shows charge left, the system not holding a charge, or macOS reporting a service-recommended battery condition. Since these packs run 10.8 to 11.26 V and 55 to 95 Wh, a worn cell often shows as a steep capacity drop from its original rating. If you see these symptoms, match your model number (like A1502 or A1989) to the correct replacement, priced from $46.99 to $92.99.